Yarn Count in Direct and Indirect System

Yarn Count:

We can define yarn count as the coarseness or fineness of yarn. It is just a numerical expression. There are main two types of yarn count measuring system. One is direct count and another is indirect count system.

We can measure the yarn count from the following formula:

                          590.5 x 16.1
Yarn Count = ……………………..
                      S.L. x Grey G.S.M. 

Standard yarn count measuring table: 

Direct System:
The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count. The common features of aII direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

                                W X l
Direct count: Nm = …………
                                w X L

Where,

N = The yarn number or, count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the sample.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.

                                                           Following table will be helpful for you:

System	Unit weight	Unit length	Uses
Tex	Grams	1,000m	Polyester
Denier	Grams	9,000m	Lycra
D-Tex	Grams	10,000m	Lycra
Pounds/Spyndle	Pounds	14400yds	Jute

Indirect System:

In this system the yarn count express the number of length in one weight unit. That means Weight Unit is fixed & Length Unit is variable here.

By the following formula yarn count is expressed in indirect system:

                                 w x L

Indirect count: Ne = …………

                                 W X l

Where, 

W = The weight of the sample.

w = The unit weight of the system.

L = The length of the sample.

l = The unit length of the sample. 

Following table will be helpful for you:

System	Unit weight	Unit length	Uses
English (Ne)	1 lb	840 yds	Cotton yarn
Metric (Nm)	1 kg	1 km	Cotton yarn
Worsted	1 lb	560 yds	Worsted yarn
Woolen	1 lb	256 yds	Woolen yarn